The 101 on Diamond Shapes

April 05, 2024

Whether you're designing your dream engagement ring or choosing a diamond eternity band to complement it, diamond cuts always play an important part in the decision. Choosing the perfect diamond cut for a special piece of jewelry comes down to personal taste, but there are certain pros and cons that come with each cut that may sway your opinion.

Learn about the nuances of each shape and discover which one speaks to your personal style. From the classic brilliance of round cuts to the unique allure of step cuts like emerald and Asscher, there's a diamond shape waiting to make your dream piece come to life.

Anything outside of a round brilliant is called a fancy shape diamond. Fancy shape diamonds only receive a polish and symmetry GIA grade, as opposed to the round brilliant, which receives the official grade of cut, polish, and symmetry. Every stone on this list has a brilliant cut except for the emerald and the Asscher, which are step cuts. Brilliant cut diamonds will catch your eye from across the room, while step cuts are understated but are just as beautiful up close.

What is a diamond shape?

A diamond shape refers to the outline or silhouette of a diamond when viewed from above. Unlike a diamond cut, which affects how well a diamond reflects light, the shape is simply the form the diamond takes.

What to consider when choosing a diamond shape?

When choosing a diamond shape, consider your own style and personality, as different shapes convey different aesthetics.

For example, a round diamond is classic and timeless, while an oval or pear shape may feel more modern and elegant. The shape also affects how the diamond appears in size and sparkle; some shapes, like marquise or oval, can make the diamond look larger, while others, like cushion or emerald, emphasize clarity and a sleek, sophisticated look.

Additionally, think about the ring setting style, as certain shapes work better with specific settings.

Here's everything you need to know about each diamond shape:

ROUND

The round brilliant is traditionally the most popular diamond on the market. It is the only perfectly symmetrical shape and offers unmatched brilliance. Rounds are the only shape GIA gives a cut grade. It is important to purchase only Excellent Cut rounds, as this is the only characteristic that impacts sparkle and brilliance. They hide color and clarity exceptionally well, allowing you to go up to two grades lower in color and clarity. Rounds are the most expensive shape per carat because the diamond cutter loses the most rough diamond in the process.

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4.06 Lab Grown Round Brilliant Whisper Thin® Pavé

$14,600

OVAL

Oval-cut diamonds are among our most requested styles because their elongated shape creates the illusion of greater size and makes the finger of the wearer appear longer and slimmer. Their ratio can vary from a shorter, rounder shape to a thinner, longer shape. Most clients prefer to work in the 1.35-1.50 ratio range. Oval-cut diamonds hide clarity very well but will show warmth in the tips in I and J colors.

Pro-Tip: Beware The Bow-Tie

The bow-tie effect is when there is less reflection due to where the facets are placed, creating a shadow that looks like two triangles with pointy ends together like a bow tie! Most oval-cut diamonds possess some degree of bow-tie, varying from near invisible to severe.

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2.50 Oval Whisper Thin® Hidden Halo

$28,250

EMERALD

The unique look of the emerald cut diamond is created by the step cuts of its pavilion and large, open table. Instead of the sparkle of a brilliant-cut, emerald cut diamonds produce a hall-of-mirrors effect. Emerald cuts, like Asschers (below), mask color very well, but not inclusions (VS2 or better is recommended). They are the more popular of the two step cut shapes since their elongation makes them appear larger than Asschers.

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5.02 Emerald Whisper Thin® Three Stone With Trapezoids

$79,470

ASSCHER

Asscher, or square emerald, is a step cut diamond. Because of this, they hide color very well but will show inclusions in SI1 or SI2 clarities. Their large step facets, higher crown, and smaller table allow them to produce more brilliance than their emerald cut counterparts. The cropped corners give the asscher cut a somewhat octagonal shape.

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3.05 Asscher Whisper Thin®

$34,850

PEAR

Also called "teardrop," a pear-cut diamond gets its name because of its single point and rounded end. The unique shape is a way to make a bit more of a statement. Like ovals, pear-cut diamonds have a slimming effect on fingers, especially when they have an elongated length-to-width ratio. More than any other diamond shape, pear-cut diamonds appear the largest for their carat weight. While the length to width ratio of a classic pear shaped diamond is 1.40-1.70, a wider shape is preferred for a solitaire ring. Pears mask inclusions very well but tend to show warmth in their tips in lower colors.

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3.01 Pear Whisper Thin®

$49,215

EURO

Old European cut diamonds are an antique round most well known for their chunkier facets and understated brilliance. OEC diamonds are known for their larger facets, which give them a petal-like sparkle and an open culet. Antique cut diamonds face up to 2 shades whiter than their GIA color grade, making them an excellent value as you can safely go down to a K color and still appear very white.

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4.52 Lab Grown Old European Oculus

$16,800

OLD MINE

Old Mine cut diamonds are antique cushion-cut diamonds with the same type of brilliance, color, and clarity-hiding properties as the Old European cut. Developed in 18th century Europe, old mine cushion cuts have a slightly curved edge that forms a soft square. They were made with a variety of facet patterns, but always with a small table, a high crown, and a larger culet. These diamonds were cut by hand and have a more natural, unprocessed look. If you compare one of these stones to a modern brilliant cut, you will notice the pattern reflected has more sculptural triangles than slivers of light.

The Old Mine cut was the earliest form of the brilliant cut, which means that the diamond was cut to allow the stone to sparkle under even the dimmest candlelight of the era.

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2.08 Old Mine Whisper Thin® Pavé Hidden Halo

$28,200

RADIANT

Radiant-cut diamonds have straight edges and cut corners, just as in the Emerald Cut, but feature brilliant faceting. Radiant-cut diamonds hide both color and clarity very well, making them an excellent value. Elongated Radiants appear larger than square Radiants, making them the more sought after ratio.

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2.85 Radiant Whisper Thin®

$34,400

CUSHION

The standards for a cushion cut vary more than most other shapes. While generally less brilliant than round brilliant diamonds, cushion-cut diamonds often have better fire, which is part of their appeal. The most prevalent modern cushion is the Cushion Modified Brilliant, which has an extra row of facets, giving it a crushed iced appearance. In contrast, a cushion brilliant has larger, fewer facets, and sparkles more similarly to a round brilliant. The typical requested shape is elongated, with a 1.10-1.25 length to width. Cushions hide inclusions very well and are known for their soft, pillow-like shape.

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10.01 Cushion Cloud Solitaire

$493,800

Which diamond shapes are most popular for engagement rings?

The most popular diamond shapes for engagement rings are typically round, princess, and oval.

Round diamonds are a classic choice known for their brilliant sparkle and timeless appeal.
Princess-cut diamonds offer a more modern, geometric look with sharp edges and a square shape
Oval diamonds provide a more elongated silhouette that can make fingers appear slimmer.

Other popular shapes include cushion, emerald, and pear, each offering its own unique charm and style.

What is the most unique diamond shape?

One of the most unique diamond shapes is the marquise, with its elongated, pointed ends that create a striking and elegant appearance. It’s a distinctive shape that stands out from more traditional options.

Other unique shapes include the heart-shaped diamond, which symbolizes love and romance, and the trillion, a triangular cut that is bold and contemporary. Choosing a unique shape allows for a truly personalized and eye-catching engagement ring design.

Common Diamond Shape FAQs

What is a diamond shape called?

A diamond shape refers to the outline or form of the diamond when viewed from above, such as round, oval, or princess.

What are the different types of diamonds?

Diamonds are categorized by shapes like round, princess, oval, pear, emerald, cushion, marquise, heart, and radiant, each offering a unique look.

What is a diamond-shaped pattern called?

A diamond-shaped pattern can be referred to as a "rhomboid" or "lozenge," often seen in jewelry settings and designs.

How does diamond shape affect the price?

Diamond shape can influence the price; round diamonds are typically more expensive due to their high demand and complex cutting process, while other shapes may offer better value for their size.

What is the difference between diamond shape and diamond cut?

Diamond shape refers to the outline (e.g., round or pear), while diamond cut affects how well a diamond reflects light, impacting its brilliance.

Do diamond shapes have meanings?

Yes, different diamond shapes are often associated with specific meanings. For example, round diamonds symbolize timelessness, while heart-shaped diamonds represent love.

Which diamond shape is most elegant?

Emerald and oval diamonds are often considered the most elegant due to their elongated, sleek lines and sophisticated appearance.

What diamond shape holds the most value?

Round diamonds tend to hold the most value because of their brilliance, high demand, and the precision required in their cutting.

Which diamond shape has the most sparkle?

Round diamonds have the most sparkle, thanks to their symmetrical shape and precise facets that maximize light reflection.

Are certain diamond shapes better for specific ring settings?

Yes, some shapes suit particular settings. For example, solitaire settings work well with round and princess cuts, while halos enhance the sparkle of cushion and oval shapes.

Which diamond shape is the most durable?

Round and princess-cut diamonds are the most durable because their lack of pointed edges reduces the risk of chipping.

What are the differences between diamond shapes & cuts?

Diamond shape is the outline of the stone, while cut refers to the quality of how well the diamond has been faceted, influencing its brilliance and sparkle.

In-Stock Engagement Rings

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Front view of the 2.50 Oval in the Whisper Thin® Bezel Natural Diamond Ring in 14K Yellow Gold

Side view of the 2.50 Oval in the Whisper Thin® Bezel Natural Diamond Ring in 14K Yellow Gold

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